3rd function problem - Grapple

[bjmurphr]

I have a 2023 L3901HST Kubota with a 3rd function installed by the dealership in Snead, Alabama tractor sales. The valve is a Hydo-tek electric valve for opening and closing my Land Pride SGC0660 Claw Grapple. My tractor sits in the yard about 40 % and under a lean-to about 60% of the time. This tractor has 70 operation hours on it. I have encountered a problem with Grapple opening, but not closing. I checked all the hydraulic connectors ensuring they are connected correctly.
I referred to "Tool time with Tim'' on You Tube. The mechanic discussed how the valve sticks because of its non-use. He suggested using a punch, nail or something with a point and pushing both A and B solenoid valves multiple times after spraying a lubricant on the valve outer surface. I was able to manually close the Grapple, but not with the lower function button.
I opened the Hydro-tek face plate by removing four metal screws. My goodness at the water that poured from the gasket sealed rectangular! All the screws are rusted in place. One broke after PB blaster spray during removal. Now, I must use a screw extractor for the remainder of the screw stem in the hole. The plastic cap at the top of the valve can be easily removed by rotating. I opened the lower wire grasper plug by rotating and more water fell out of the area. I removed the black caps around the electromagnetic valves and found the top valve area rusted also.
I have taken pictures of the wire connections, began cleaning each wire compartment and replacing those screws with something that doesn't rust as fast. I plan to seal that whole box with silicon caulk for added waterproof protection. I discussed this problem with a Snead tractor parts representative. He said it's not covered under the warranty insurance because it's an added accessory to the tractor. I don't agree because it was purchased and installed during the sales transaction. The valve was made in China and imported for this application and others. I wish, America made our own valves like when I was a young man. I believe, I wouldn't have encountered this problem so soon into the purchase.
I haven't finished the repair, but hope my efforts will fix the problem. Has anyone else encountered this problem? How did you restore the function without buying another $683 factory part and paying $150/ hour labor? I found similar parts on E-bay for various prices, but I'm not sure if the valve with bolt to my tractor properly. What are your thoughts? I'm attaching pictures to help everyone see what I'm seeing. Thank you for your input and help. Billy

 

[AgroBrixton]

It's frustrating when new equipment has issues, especially something installed by the dealer!
The water in the Hydro-tek valve housing is definitely a major red flag and likely the root cause of your solenoid sticking.
Corrosion inside electrical components will certainly mess with their function.
The advice you got on YouTube seems like a temporary fix.
Unfortunately, buying a new valve is often the path many take when internal corrosion is severe, as repair can be tricky and parts hard to source individually.
The price you quoted is steep, but it's the cost of specialized hydraulic components.
You're also right to be cautious with buying from eBay since compatibility not just with patterns but with flow rates and electrical specs is crucial.
Maybe try a local hydraulic shop around your area and ask them to rebuild or source an equivalent valve for you?

 

[prestigious-iceberg77]

Billy, I am just seeing your detailed post from July and hope you've made some progress with your grapple issue.

The frustration with that dealer-installed valve is completely understandable and the water ingress is unacceptable on a new machine. Based on your picture, you have a standard D03 or NG6 pattern hydraulic valve, which is a common industrial valve size. Knowing the industry standard name is important because it means you are not limited to the Hydro-Tek brand. Any reputable hydraulic supplier can provide a replacement from a better manufacturer that will bolt right in. I strongly advise against sealing the housing with silicone caulk, as it can trap condensation inside and exacerbate the corrosion problem over time. A better approach is to clean all the contacts thoroughly and then apply a generous amount of dielectric grease to every electrical connection and the gasket to keep moisture out.

How did your repair efforts turn out and were you ever able to have a more serious conversation with the dealership's service manager about them standing behind their installation work?

 

[bjmurphr]

It's frustrating when new equipment has issues, especially something installed by the dealer!
The water in the Hydro-tek valve housing is definitely a major red flag and likely the root cause of your solenoid sticking.
Corrosion inside electrical components will certainly mess with their function.
The advice you got on YouTube seems like a temporary fix.
Unfortunately, buying a new valve is often the path many take when internal corrosion is severe, as repair can be tricky and parts hard to source individually.
The price you quoted is steep, but it's the cost of specialized hydraulic components.
You're also right to be cautious with buying from eBay since compatibility not just with patterns but with flow rates and electrical specs is crucial.
Maybe try a local hydraulic shop around your area and ask them to rebuild or source an equivalent valve for you?

Thank you

 

[bjmurphr]

Billy, I am just seeing your detailed post from July and hope you've made some progress with your grapple issue.

The frustration with that dealer-installed valve is completely understandable and the water ingress is unacceptable on a new machine. Based on your picture, you have a standard D03 or NG6 pattern hydraulic valve, which is a common industrial valve size. Knowing the industry standard name is important because it means you are not limited to the Hydro-Tek brand. Any reputable hydraulic supplier can provide a replacement from a better manufacturer that will bolt right in. I strongly advise against sealing the housing with silicone caulk, as it can trap condensation inside and exacerbate the corrosion problem over time. A better approach is to clean all the contacts thoroughly and then apply a generous amount of dielectric grease to every electrical connection and the gasket to keep moisture out.

How did your repair efforts turn out and were you ever able to have a more serious conversation with the dealership's service manager about them standing behind their installation work?

I gained some help from an amazing mechanic named John. He drilled holes in the bottom of the valve box, replaced screws, cleaned the metal contacts and used dielectric grease. It is working again. I’m so disappointed with Snead Tractor not being more responsible considering amount of hours. New valve is the fix, but they’re near $700. I’ll chance the repair until it breaks and save for replacement. Thank you.

 

[prestigious-iceberg77]

I gained some help from an amazing mechanic named John. He drilled holes in the bottom of the valve box, replaced screws, cleaned the metal contacts and used dielectric grease. It is working again. I'm so disappointed with Snead Tractor not being more responsible considering amount of hours. New valve is the fix, but they're near $700. I'll chance the repair until it breaks and save for replacement. Thank you.

It's good to hear you got the valve working again with some hands on help. Your disappointment with the dealer is completely justified. A professional installation on a new tractor should never have allowed water to enter and damage a component like that.